Frank Zappa in Vilnius

Photo: Wout de Natris

At least two decades ago I heard of a buste of Frank Zappa in Vilnius. When one of my former colleagues travelled to Lithuania's capital for an international meeting somewhere in the 00s, I asked him to take a picture for the erstwhile WoNo Magazine, which he dutifully did. Last week I was in the city for the fourth time in 16 years and finally found the time to do so myself.

About an hour before a great downpour I left my hotel in the morning to take a 15 minute walk down the street it is in. Past the former city wall and late 19th century buildings that most likely have seen better times but still show a form of grandeur.

At the beginning of a side street leading into a more modern residential area, Google Maps said destination reached. On one side appartment building and on the other a diagnostic centre with next to it a parking lot. So where was Zappa's buste? Next to the parking lot there is a postage stamp of a park. In front of a mural is the buste an a silver coloured round pedestal. It has a fairly good likeness to the American musician and composer. From a distance better than up close.

Zappa lived from 1940 to 1993, when he died of cancer. When he died I wondered what his legacy would be. I still don't know, to be honest. Zappa was on a plain of his own, musically and lyrically, besides writing (rather weird, even bizarre) songs and compositions. I have many of his records but the one I revisit the most is 'One Size Fits All'. My absolute favourite, including my absolute favourite Zappa song, 'Inca Roads'. This will undoubtedly be different for many people.

When I told people at the conference what my plan was for Wednesday morning, I noticed that many people had no clue who I was talking about. That tells you something but then Zappa was never one to get played on the radio with the exception of 'Dancing Fool' and apparently 'Bobby Brown' in Norway. He always was one for the connaisseur music lover.

Photo: Wout de Natris

But why the statue in Vilnius? That is a good question. I thought to know but when I visited the Go Vilnius website today, I found that there is no real story behind it. Fact is, Zappa never visited the town and has (no known) tie to it. It all started "with a visit to the USA by artist Saulius Paukštys, who told everyone a story of how he became friends with Zappa himself. It was all an elaborate lie". Because the story Zappa did get noticed by other people in Lithuania. This inspired "sculptor Konstantinas Bagdonas, known for his busts of Lenin during Soviet times, (who) created the legendary Zappa statue as a sign of a new era of post-Soviet Lithuania".

That is all behind the buste on a 2,5 meter high pedestal. You can find it at this address: K. Kalinausko g. 1, Vilnius 03107.

Was it worth the walk? Yes, when you're a Zappa fan, it is a must do when in Vilnius. The walk is nice and walk back a little down the same thoroughfare, turn left and you are in the old centre before you know it.

Wout de Natris